At the confluence of the White Nile and the Blue Nile in Khartoum lies Africa’s largest commercial construction site. Across 1,500 acres, at a place called Alsunut, Sudanese and Chinese workmen are working in shifts around the clock to build a new Dubai: a vast complex of gleaming offices, duplexes and golf courses that will turn Khartoum, it is hoped, into the commercial and financial hub of Islamist east Africa.The first tower of this $4 billion development, due to be finished by next October, will be the headquarters of the Greater Nile Petroleum Operating Company. Close behind, in a building shaped like a sail, will rise the headquarters of Petrodar. Both these companies—Chinese, Malaysian, Indian and Sudanese joint ventures—are pumping out Sudan’s oil, most of which is being bought by China.
And that is just on one side of the White Nile. Opposite Alsunut, on the Omdurman side, Saudi and Kuwaiti investors have bought a large plot of land on which they intend to build a huge financial centre. And all this is taking shape in a country which is still subject to comprehensive economic sanctions, imposed by America, for giving shelter and support to terrorists—including, at one time, Osama bin Laden.
Sudan is now one of the fastest-growing economies in Africa. The IMF expects its GDP to grow by 13% this year, and the investors in Alsunut seem confident the boom will go on. Having found itself isolated in the 1990s for its Islamist extremism and terrorism, Sudan has found a way back into international esteem without the West, by re-inventing itself as the new entrepôt state of east Africa.
But this, of course, is not the whole story. Behind the fast-rising glittering towers lies a region that has been ignored: Sudan’s south, where 80% of the oil lies. After 1956, when the country gained independence, the south, which is Christian and animist, was in an almost permanent state of rebellion against the Muslim Arab north, demanding a bigger share of the national wealth and a greater degree of self-rule. This region, which holds the key to the development of Sudan, also holds the key to its peace in future; not only in the south, but also in the war-ravaged western region of Darfur.
Southern Sudan remains a tense, chaotic place in which memories of fighting have not faded. In Juba, the capital of the putative state of South Sudan, Mr Venisto (he will give no first name), wonders what to do about boys who bring hand grenades to his primary school. His “boys” range in age from six to 25; some bring guns, others turn up drunk. They have known little else in their lives but bush warfare. Like everyone in Juba, Mr Venisto has to survive on his wits rather than money, trying to instruct more than 2,980 pupils with just 51 teachers, all of them new to the job. With as many as 150 in each class, the tents that serve as classrooms are ripped and shredded as the pupils tumble out of them. Mr Venisto insists on a full morning of classes, as breaks quickly degenerate into all-out fighting.
The new government of South Sudan, composed of former commanders of the Sudan People’s Liberation Army, is trying to enrol 750,000 new pupils this year, out of a population of 12m. If they succeed, still only about 30% of school-age children will be at school. But it is progress of sorts, and at least the south is in a state of relative peace. At the moment, the best guess is that a huge majority of southerners will vote for their own state when they get the chance.
Their own state would mean their own oil industry. Riek Machar, South Sudan’s vice-president, eagerly outlines a plan for a refinery just east of Juba and pipelines through Congo to the Atlantic and Kenya to the Indian Ocean. The construction companies, he says, have already been chosen for the pipelines and the finance is nearly in place; the fact that the Kenya pipeline is supposed to reach the sea at Lamu, a World Heritage site, does not worry him. (“They’re just tourists.”)
Mr Machar’s plans, combined with the election schedule, mean that the northern government may have only five years to extract as much oil from the south as it can before it loses control. And this deadline puts the peace in jeopardy. The aggressive search for, and extraction of, oil by north-sponsored companies is not only messing up the environment but also inflaming tensions with the southern government. And it is provoking a dangerous backlash.
The southern government has just begun to fight back; it recently impounded two oil-company helicopters that were carrying out unauthorised seismic tests. Individual villages and militias have also begun to mount their own attacks on oil workers and installations. The past few weeks alone have brought reports of seven oil workers killed around the village of Paloich and an attack, by a group from another village, on a convoy of 21 oil tankers. More worrying for the northern government is the news that rebel groups from elsewhere are joining in. On November 27th, for the first time, one such band ventured out of terrorised Darfur to attack a refinery at Abu Jabra in North Kordofan state. This is not yet an insurgency against oil companies of the type that has been seen in Nigeria, but the first signs are there.
Most disappointing of all, little progress has been made towards demobilising the scores of militias that roamed the south during the war. These militias, constantly shifting their alliances, were sometimes used as proxy fighters for the northern government. The Sudanese army has pulled back from most of its bases in the southernmost states, but only as far as the oilfields. There the north also keeps up to 60,000 of the more Islamist Popular Defence Forces, which it can deploy whenever it likes.
The danger of having so many armed militias still wandering about was dramatically illustrated last week in the town of Malakal. In the biggest breach of the 2005 ceasefire so far, the SPLM engaged in several days of fighting with both a militia group and the regular (northern) Sudanese army. Hundreds died. Previous weeks had seen about 20 attacks on the main road from Juba into Kenya, leaving more than 100 dead. Having caught 15 of the attackers, the SPLM identified them as members of a militia directed by the Sudanese army. Pa’gan Amum, the secretary-general of the SPLM, called this “an act of war” and an attempt to “terrorise and destabilise” the south.
In such an atmosphere of distrust, it is not surprising that the southern government is rapidly converting its old guerrilla force into a proper army. In the latest budget, over 40% of the precious oil money, South Sudan’s only source of income, has been earmarked for military expenditure. If the north is spoiling for a fight over the oilfields and southern secession, then the south wants to make sure it is ready.
Next year 1m refugees are expected to return to the south, and a census is planned for November to pave the way for elections in the whole of Sudan in 2008. Failure could see the south reverting to chronic instability, or even to war again. Peace was achieved in the south only when America, the European Union and regional African countries bullied the north into making the necessary deals. Now that pressure has been relaxed.
Even the government’s strongholds do not appear secure. This week the UN evacuated most of its staff from el-Fasher, the capital of North Darfur, after fighting broke out in the market with rebel fighters; there had been rumours of an imminent attack on the town by a coalition of rebel groups. The northern army seems demoralised and ineffective, which is one reason why it has reverted to using the fearsome janjaweed Arab militias as its proxies, in combination with high-level bombing, to terrorise and subdue the locals. But the army’s defeats may not lead to meaningful peace deals; so many different rebel groups now infest Darfur that striking any sort of agreement with them all has become dauntingly difficult.
Alsunut is not the only huge construction site in Khartoum. About 15km (9 miles) across the city the largest American embassy in Africa is going up, which will supposedly house the biggest CIA listening post outside America. It reflects the spooks’ cosy relationship with the Sudanese intelligence services in the name of the “war on terror”. When it comes to that particular war, and the lure of oil, old enmities—and the old hopes of peace in Sudan—can rapidly be forgotten.








